Showing posts with label Gaze. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Gaze. Show all posts

Thursday, February 18, 2010

The Other Side of the Military Look, or... The Army that Michael Jackson Built



Most menswear is derived somehow from a military tradition. From no-brainers from the pea-coat to the lowering of the high military collar and eventual pressing down to form the lapels on a suit jacket this is an undeniable fact throughout history.

What seems different today (speaking outside of the suit and tie mentality) is that this kind of fashion extends to include more utilitarian, industrial notions. Two videos ago a young designer who claimed to make menswear with a male-originated gaze advertised a military dogtag and (matching) bullet as a piece of jewelry. While this commercial use of a purely utilitarian object is perhaps a call to a modern industrial aesthetic, it is additionally a way for this military influence to be seen in a more direct manner. Although not industrial in nature, a recent trend in military inspired clothes--epauletts, shoulders, cuffs, boots--seems to be getting closer and closer to the real thing.

Why is this? An ideal of masculinity that is retaliating against the metrosexual trend? Given the events of 9/11 and a fear of terrorist attacks in the 21st battlefield--civilian streets--is this a way for our masculine subconscious to reinforce protection of our territories? Or can we just chalk it up to the death and morning of one Michael Joseph Jackson?

Exposing John Gonska?

In the previous video, Gonska claims that he is making clothing that supports the male gaze/perceptions over that of the female gaze, which is predominant in the fashion industry. Given the content of this video, is this a good thing?

If the media does indeed perpetuate images of male on male violence, then a clothing line designed by men, for men, who idealize (fetish-ize?) notations of the military (dog tags, used bullets) certainly does provide a set of images and ideals that support a type of heterosexual male on male gaze. Given the strict limitations on gender and individuality within the confines of the military, is this version of menswear a worthwhile ideal?

Mainstream Menswear...

the domain of the female/effiminate gaze?